Alison Chapman's Tips

Andrew and Alison Chapman - 2006 F11 Australian Champions _6039

Alison Chapman’s Tips to Being a Better F11 Crew

START:

Know when to get jib on

Easing it on (by the tell-tales) – no yanking

Weight up and hiking when gun goes – not after

UPWIND:

Hiking – need to get upper body out and horizontal (keep Ali dry!)

TACKING:

Weight to windward and hiking ASAP

TOP MARK:

Easing jib – don’t just throw it off

Pole out faster (2 full arm length pulls can and will do it)

GYBING:

Pull pole out to brace, NOT brace in to pole

Ensure pole is going out FORWARD, not to the side and separate from the tack of spinnaker

BOTTOM MARK:

Drop kite with only 2 downward grabs

Get jib on gradually (watch tell-tales) as you round mark

Do not delay getting jib on, even if kite still in a mess

GENERAL SAILING:

Keep your eyes out of the boat –

• Watch for gusts

• Watch boats further up the course for approaching wind changes

• Communicate with skipper

• Be aware of sail trim ALL THE TIME

Fiesty F11s R3

Alison Chapman’s Tips

SKIPPER & CREW IN-RACE CHECK LIST

STARTING

1. Which end of line is favoured?

2. Which side of the course do we want to sail?

3. How are we going to get to that side from where we want to start?

4. Which way is the tide/current going?

5. Which way is the wind likely to swing?

6. Are we going to be in the best place to take advantage of that swing?

7. Is there going to be "pressure" where we're planning to sail?

8. Is the boat set up to get instant speed "out-of-the-blocks"? VANG?

1st LEG

1. Have we got clear air? VANG?

2. Where is the next line of "pressure"?

3. Are we on the right tack to get the most advantage from that "pressure"?

4. Do we need to get into or out of the tide?

5. Is crew feeding skipper info of lifts or knocks ahead?

6. Are we covering the opposition by being between them and the mark?

7. Have we got clear air (again) ? VANG?

APPROACHING 1ST MARK

1. Are we going to have right-of-way at the mark?

2. Should we gybe before setting the kite?

3. Can we get into a position to round the mark with other boat(s), to allow us to go in the direction we want to after rounding?

4. Is crew aware of what skipper wants to do at the mark?

5. Skipper ask crew to say when boat gets to "2 boat lengths before the mark".

6. If we've decided NOT to gybe at the mark and have reached the 2 boat length area, is the pole set up with the brace attached?

ROUNDING WINDWARD MARK AND AFTER

1. Is kite/pole set square enough? VANG?

2. Has centreboard been raised?

3. Where's the next "pressure"?

4. Do we need to get into or out of the tide?

5. Are the boats ahead (if any) running out of wind?

6. Would we be heading closer to the leeward mark on the other gybe?

7. Are we going to be over-run by other boats?

8. Should we go higher or lower to stay out of their shadow?

9. How do we want to approach the leeward mark and on which gybe? (so that the kite's on the right side for the NEXT set?

10. Will we have buoy room from others or will they have it on us?

11. Is boat set up for next windward leg - 1) outhaul 2) cunningham 3) VANG!

2006/2007 NSW State Titles Round 1

Alison Chapman’s Tips

F11 Gybe Procedure

(Before attempting gybe, skipper should ensure crew knows intended new boat direction and wind angle after gybe, i.e. tight shy, 3/4 or square.

Skipper should also know and communicate the desired new course planned, high or low, depending on the possible effect of following boats)

1. Skipper lets crew know intention to gybe, stands up with feet apart in a position to balance boat and takes kite sheet from crew

2) Crew pulls leeward tweaker on and lets out windward, stands up astride centrecase and pushes centreboard down

3) Skipper eases kite sheet and pulls kite brace to compensate for tweaker adjustment, bears away, squaring kite to keep it floating.

4) Skipper calls for "boom over" and steers boat to dead square

5) Crew releases pole launcher, making sure pole returns completely

6) Crew releases jib sheet with one hand, ducks down and pulls boom over with the other, then immediately stands up, pulling pole launcher about 300 to 400mm as body rising.

7) Skipper continues to float kite while steering through the gybe (figure "S" course), coming as close to new course as possible without spilling kite

8) Crew puts new brace in pole hook, maintaining 2 fingers over to avoid it dropping out of hook. At same time, using other hand, pulling launcher as hard and fast as possible. As soon as fingers no longer needed over new brace, use both hands to complete pole launch, fast and completely

9) Skipper eases brace (from floating) to allow pole to go out and brings boat to new course, adjusting main as necessary.

10) Skipper hands sheet to crew and adjusts brace

11) Crew raises centreboard and moves quickly to the correct balancing position to suit course, sheets kite as needed then sets jib sheet (off more being preferable to not enough)

12) Skipper checks vang, outhaul and cunningham tensions

1363 CRUNCHIE

Alison Chapman’s Tips

LIGHT WEATHER BOAT AND SAIL TRIM

BOAT:

1. Fore and aft - Transom to water is the guideline. The bottom of the boat at the transom should be just touching the water all the time, no matter what angle of lean you have the boat.

2. Sideways lean - Sail shape is the guideline. The hull of your boat is at its most efficient shape to move through the water when it is level, which is why you keep the boat flat when you have wind.

However, when there is little wind, the over-riding factor is the efficiency of the sail to use what little wind is available.

To help that happen, your sail has to 'hang' so that no wind is wasted pushing the sail into its designed shape.

Lean the boat and then adjust the shape of the main with outhaul and by releasing cunningham and vang.

Do not lean the boat further than is necessary or the weight of the sail will over-ride the effect of the light wind and you won't know if the sail is trimmed to the wind angle correctly.

3. Sheet tension - Use light sheet tension, only trimming to the correct angle for the wind direction and desired course.

AN EASED SAIL IS A FASTER SAIL IN LIGHT WINDS .... DO NOT BIND UP YOUR BOAT BY HAVING REALLY TIGHT SAIL TRIM.

1336 Hydromattic - Matt Stenta and Sam Holmes

Alison Chapman’s Tips

F11 Spinnaker Setting Procedure

(Assume you are approaching a rounding mark on a windward beat and will be setting the spinnaker after you round. It is here that pre-planning will make it go much more smoothly in the actual set.)

1) Before the start, skipper and crew visualise the course and pack the spinnaker on the side that will be to leeward at the first rounding mark

2) Before rounding, skipper should ensure crew knows the intended new boat direction and wind angle after rounding, i.e. tight shy, 3/4 or square.

Skipper should also know and communicate the desired new course to the next mark, high or low, depending on the possible effect of following boats

3) Skipper, on approach to mark, calls crew to set up the pole, providing that you will be setting before gybing.

If intending to gybe around mark, pole set-up follows the gybe. For gybe first procedure, ignore 3), go to 6), then 7) b)}

4) Skipper releases the windward brace while still concentrating on sailing the boat to the mark

5) Crew moves into boat from gunwale and pulls pole launcher approx 400-500mm, so that end of pole is clear of the mast, reaches down to leeward and releases the spinnaker sheet AND the leeward tweaker. Crew then unhooks head of spinnaker (halyard) and pulls enough brace to allow placing it in the hook on the end of the pole

6) Round the mark (and gybe, if that is the planned action)

7) a) (Staying on same tack) Skipper tells crew he/she is hoisting, stands up with feet apart in a position to balance boat and pulls spinnaker halyard until spinnaker hits the top

Crew releases jib sheet with one hand, then immediately stands up, pulling pole launcher about 400 to 500mm as body rising. Crew ensures brace in pole hook, maintaining 2 fingers over to avoid it dropping out of hook. At same time, using other hand, pulling launcher as hard and fast as possible. As soon as fingers no longer needed over new brace, use both hands to complete pole launch, fast and completely {Go to 8)}

b) (gybing first) Skipper calls for gybe.

Crew releases jib sheet with one hand, ducks down and pulls boom over with the other, then immediately stands up, pulling pole launcher about 400 to 500mm as body rising.

Crew puts brace in pole hook, maintaining 2 fingers over to avoid it dropping out of hook.

At same time, using other hand, pulls launcher as hard and fast as possible. As soon as fingers no longer needed over new brace, use both hands to complete pole launch, fast and completely.

Skipper stands up with feet apart in a position to balance boat and pulls spinnaker halyard until spinnaker hits the top

8) Skipper eases brace to allow pole to go out and brings boat to new course, adjusting main as necessary. When pole fully out, skipper sets brace for correct pole angle to suit course

9) Crew reaches to leeward and grabs spinnaker sheet and fills sail

10) Crew raises centreboard and moves quickly to the correct balancing position to suit course, sheets kite as needed then sets jib sheet (off more being preferable to not enough)

11) Skipper checks vang, outhaul and cunningham tensions

1336 Hydromattic - Matt Stenta and Sam Holmes

Alison Chapman’s Tips

F11 Spinnaker lowering Procedure

(Assume you are approaching a leeward mark and will be on the same tack after you round.)

1) Before rounding, skipper should ensure crew knows the intended new boat direction and if there may be a quick tack necessary after rounding.

2) Skipper, on approach to mark, calls crew for kite drop. If intending to gybe around mark, follow gybe procedure without re-launching pole.

3) Crew hands kite sheet to skipper, stands up astride centreboard case, pushes centreboard right down and releases pole launcher

4) Skipper pulls the windward brace right in while still concentrating on sailing the boat to the mark

5) Crew grabs kite at tack (brace corner) and gathers rest of foot of kite into one hand directly above kite basket. With other hand, stretch up to grab gathered kite as high as you can reach, while skipper releases halyard and starts to lower at same rate as crew can gather sail. Crew pulls down upper handful and reaches up with other hand for the rest of the kite and stows all in basket.

6) Crew stuffs clew (sheet corner) of spinnaker under kite pole kicker, on forward buoyancy tank, to stop it blowing out of boat and grabs jib sheet. Important note is for crew to ensure that kite sheet has not dropped below bow of boat while dropping. (If it has, move forward and lift it over the bow before rounding)

7) As skipper rounds mark, crew pulls in jib sheet at rate to match wind direction change, just keeping jib full (not backing) until it is in to the on-a-wind position.

8) Crew moves to correct position to balance the boat for beating

9) If crew has not completed kite drop at rounding, both skipper and crew remember that having the jib on after rounding is far more important (and time costly if it's not) than stowing the last of the kite

10) Skipper checks vang, outhaul and cunningham tensions

Alison Chapman’s Tips

F11 Roll-tacking Procedure

This method of tacking your F11 will produce smooth, trouble-free tacks and maintain as much speed as possible through the tack, then give "kick-start" acceleration in the new direction.

In all but the lightest wind, both skipper and crew should be on the windward side of the boat before the tack begins.

1) Using the least amount of rudder movement, lean the boat to windward as it turns up into the wind.

2) Stay on the windward gunwale until the boat leans so far to windward that the gunwale almost touches the water.

3) Crew lets the jib go as the boat comes head to wind and takes the new sheet through under the boom, going head first, feet last and at the same time as the skipper.

4) Both turn and sit on to the new tack windward gunwale, crew pulling on the jib sheet and cleating while already starting to hike on the new tack. In lighter wind, the crew stays on the old tack windward side and holds the jib sheet until the skipper can take it and cleat it.

5) Skipper pulls the mainsheet on as soon as the sail will fill on the new tack.

The action of the boat coming from a leaning to windward on the old tack to an upright position on the new fills the sail faster and helps to make the boat accelerate away on the new tack.

Note: a) Main is still filling although boat is past head to wind,

b) Little rudder is being used to turn the boat and

c) Starboard gunwale is touching the water.

NSW Sprints 2006

Alison Chapman’s Tips

F11 Rigging procedure

1) Boat lifted out to ramp

2) Boat bender set up on mast

3) Feed Spinnaker halyard through mast step

4) Mast up, one holding mast

5) Attach sidestays and bender

6) Tension on bender

7) Tip boat (ensure padding under gunwale)

8) More tension on bender

9) Jib on bow first, then at hounds

10) Release tension on bender

11) Bender off mast

12) Main up, ensure sail right up to bottom of top mast band and quick release pin is working

13) Check batten tension enough to remove wrinkles

14) Check shockcord is on head of jib and spin halyard outside it

15) Tape shackle, vernier and exposed swages at head of jib to avoid snagging spinnaker

16) Boat upright and tie in cradle/dolly

17) Ensure boat head to wind

18) Jib downhaul attached

19) Jib sheets attached

20) Tape sidestay verniers and exposed swages

21) Tape jib shackle and exposed swages on bow

22) Boom on

23) Main outhaul attached

24) Attach spin pole topper/ kicker

25) Feed pole launcher and check it's working

26) Mainsheet attached and threaded

27) Check mainsheet knot stops boom clear of sidestay to allow spin pole room to come in or out

28) Mainsail cunningham hook on sail

29) Attach vang to boom

30) Thread spinnaker halyard with double fig 8 in end

31) Check jib sheet angle

32) Feed Spin brace/sheet through tweaker blocks

33) Attach spin brace/sheet to tack/clew

34) Clear spin halyard down mast and attach to head of spinnaker

35) Hoist spin to ensure no tangles/twists

36) Drop into basket and clip brace and halyard

37) Pull both tweakers on

38) Get tank tops and screw loosely

39) If blowing hard, tie boat to ramp

40) Get changed

41) Take foils to water's edge

42) Launch boat, hold head to wind